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Friday, July 21, 2017

California - (Part 9) Monterey and Carmel

On June 10, 2016 we chose to drive in the SUV to Monterey Bay and Carmel (both scenic coastal destinations) and see the gorgeous sights we have heard so much about. So at 9:15 a.m. that day we got our start, and with wonderful weather in the low 60'sF (16C), we traveled past farmlands on both sides of the road for miles - neat lines of garlic, artichoke, kale, walnut trees, pistachio trees, strawberries, almond and cherry trees.
From San Juan Batista on CA-156 W, we joined the CA-1 (Pacific Coast Highway) and the scenery changed to massive dunes and ocean breezes. Passing by the Fort Ord Dunes State Park, we watched drivers on dune buggies scaling the huge sand mounds.  
Spotting the Monterey Bay area sign, we drove towards Cannery Row, the waterfront street located in the new Monterey Bay section of Monterey. Cannery Row was the former sardine canning factory district. The last cannery closed in 1973. The street, once called Ocean View Avenue, was nicknamed Cannery Row and this name stuck (officially) in 1958 in honor of John Steinbeck and his popular novel "Cannery Row". 
We walked onto the scenic McAbee Beach, once the site where whales were dragged ashore by their captors back in the late 1880's. A mural on concrete reminds visitors of past fishing days.

The water was alive with sea kelp bobbing on the water's surface and winding amongst the rocks. This tiny beach on the Bay, hidden in a small cove, used to be a Chinese fishing village and was in the heart of Cannery Row. Now, seals, whales, otters, birds and water life thrive in and amongst the rocks.  
  

  
Private homes line the rocky cliffs along the Bay and the historic Spindrift Inn sits right on the sand. 
  
There was a pier that shared the beach.  

On the pier, there was a restaurant called The Fish Hopper that we ate lunch at and had delicious seafood meals.
  
Wanting to walk off some of those calories, we strolled along the Cannery Row shops and cafes.
  
This aqua massage machine caught my eye. The last time I saw one of those was in Greece and I volunteered to test it out. I had to lie prone on the massage bed, my face cradled in a donut shaped pillow. I remained fully clothed, except my shoes. Then, what felt like, a big gel pack full of water was placed on the back of my body from my shoulders to my feet. The weight of the water, along with jets and what-not was used to "massage" my body. I can't really say I felt relaxed afterwards but it was an unusual experience. 
  
Unveiled in February, 2014, this Cannery Row monument pays tribute to nine important characters who played pivotal roles in the history of Cannery Row. At the top of the rock sat the statue of author John Steinbeck. The other statues were industry entrepreneurs and fishermen.
  
Beautiful flowers and succulents were in full bloom. 
  
Quad cycles were available for rent as transportation along the Row.

This mural showed after hour Cannery worker musicians in the 1940's.

A one mile walk brought us into the neighboring Pacific Grove area, known for its Victorian homes and is an artist haven. One other claim to fame is being "Butterfly Town USA" for the annual migration of Monarch butterflies. For my movie buffs: Pacific Grove was the main filming location for the 1989 film Turner & Hooch starring Tom Hanks as well as the 1959 romantic film A Summer Place starring Sandra Dee and Troy Donahue.

The Centrella Inn in Pacific Grove was built in 1889 and is a National Historic Landmark. It still ushers in the bygone Victorian era with old fashioned claw foot bathtubs, antique furnishings and period art. 

Pink Ice Plant flowers formed a carpet along the beachfront of Perkins Park and has the unusual purpose of attracting Monarch Butterflies. The butterflies come from 2,000 miles away every year to Pacific Grove and spend much of fall and winter in the local Monterey Pine, Cypress and Eucalyptus trees.

We went back to our car then drove along Perkins Park which was located along Ocean View Boulevard between Lover's Point Park and Esplanade Park. Perkins is nearly a mile long and has walking trails with benches between the street and the water.

Asilomar State Beach was located on the Pebble Beach Peninsula in Pacific Grove. This beach was located along Sunset Drive. Not a "typical" beach, it was a string of small coves and rocky points with a few sandy spots along the way. Nevertheless, it was beautiful. 

  
Next we toured the Pebble Beach area which is the home to the legendary Pebble Beach Golf Course, its unparalleled views and host to seven of the greatest golf holes on a course. 
        
Pebble Beach had more to offer when it came to scenic splendor. 

The Lone Cypress standing atop this granite cliff is a western icon and has been referred to as the most photographed tree in North America. It was also a small segment of the 17 Mile Drive along the Pacific Coast Highway, a drive I would recommend to anyone who has never done it before. IT WAS SPECTACULAR!  The cost was $10.00 US per vehicle and allows you to travel between Monterey and north Carmel. Again, for my movie buffs: the 1958 film Vertigo starring James Stewart had beach scenes that were filmed along this 17 Mile Drive.
  
  
  
  
  
  
Carmel-By-The-Sea is a small, wealthy, one square mile beach city and it has always been associated with the rich and famous in western society. One spot of notoriety was the Hog's Breath Inn, once owned by Hollywood movie actor Clint Eastwood for 27 years until 1999. Clint also was mayor of this city from 1986 - 1988. Once more, for my movie buffs: the 1980 romantic comedy Seems Like Old Times starring Goldie Hawn had many scenes shot in the downtown and residential areas of Carmel-By-The-Sea.
  
    
Only after I visited the Monterey Peninsula did I read about a movie tour of this area, which includes Pebble Beach and the 17 Mile Drive. So, unfortunately, I did not get to try this tour myself but in case you are interested, here is their website for further information: Monterey Movie Tours

A picnic on Carmel Beach was the perfect way to end a spectacular day. We owe Janet (one of our travel companions) kudos for coming up with this idea. The sand was powdery soft, the air was cold and crisp and...what a sunset!
      
  
While Rick and I slept most of the following day, Janet and Ralph drove back into Gilroy for lunch. Janet took pictures of these artichoke plants for me and brought back garlic ice cream for me to try (confession: it's still in my freezer and I intend to try it one of these days...maybe).
  
  
  
That night Rick and Ralph grilled salmon at our campsite and Janet made steamed asparagus and a tomato and cucumber salad with balsamic vinaigrette dressing. The night air chilled into the low 50'sF (10C) and the wind picked up so we burrowed into our coaches for the night after that good meal and fell into wonderful slumbers.   
  
    
Coming next: Sacramento, California - California - (Part 10) Sacramento




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