Uruguay, like much of neighboring Argentina, is a country of grassy prairies with scattered patches of scrubby woodlands. These prairies comprise one of the world's great grasslands - the Pampas. These wide open spaces nurtured the famed Gauchos, equivalent of the North American cowboy. Gauchos herded cattle and practiced hunting on the vast estancias (estates). Their diet consisted mostly of beef and supplemented by yerba mate. Mate was a traditional stimulating infusion made with crushed and toasted yerba (a type of holly) from the Yerba tree. The container is a gourd. Hot water is poured in, and then drunk by sucking through a metal pipe-like straw. It is rich in caffeine and nutrients. Gauchos were also famous for their asado (barbecue) and the use of bolas (three leather bound rocks tied together with three foot long leather straps) for hunting.
Rick and I were eager to start our first of two days in Uruguay since this would be an overnight stay in port.
We disembarked the ship and began our tour spending a day at a working, authentic ranch.
After a 45 minute ride out of Montevideo, we pulled off the paved highway and entered the immense 3,650 acre property of Estancia La Rabida. We drove on the estancia's property for another 4.3 miles (7 kilometers) and arrived at the ranch house.
We were greeted by a traditional Uruguayan family on horseback, led by the matriarch grandmother who was in her 80's, as they opened their home to us. Introductions from the Artagaveytia-Pardo Santayana family, comprised of descendants, children, grandchildren and great grandchildren, ensued.
Local wines, beers and juices were then served. La Rabida, a 100 year old estate, prided itself on being self sustaining using top technology, eco-friendly energy sources and productive types of farming.
A traditional Uruguayan asado was prepared for us using open pits of fire and choices of meat including beef, chicken, pork, lamb and sausage. Our meal also included salads using vegetables and legumes harvested fresh from the garden. Local wines, beers and juices continued to flow. We ate al fresco on white linen tablecloths, sitting on bales of fresh hay and tables made of wood. The ambiance was great!
Entertainment was provided by the family as they demonstrated their traditional music and dances using drums and bolas.
Later we were treated to a hayride and explored the acres of lakes, windmills, streams and open fields all ending abruptly in high cliffs sloping gently down to a beach along the coast. Our attentive hosts even provided hats to shield us from the sun and mosquito repellent for any bare arms and legs to protect against the biting insects around the lakes. Family members followed our hay wagon in a beautiful, black older model car and gave rides in the vehicle to any guests who were eager. Along the way, we witnessed three cows giving birth to calves in the fields.
Once we reached the cliffs, we got out of the wagon and followed a tree lined, gently sloping pebble path that led to the seashore. Our view opened up onto a gorgeous private beach nestled along the cliffs that stretched along the River Plate and continued on to the Atlantic Ocean. Simply spectacular! After a stroll along the sandy piece of paradise, we walked back to our wagon and returned to the ranch house.
The matriarch-grandmother met us at the ranch house and took us for a walk to the pumps where fresh spring water was piped up from an underground aquifer below the ranch. She then handed out drinking glasses to each of us and we tasted the cool, pure water she called "blue gold".
Next, we strolled past an open corral of rheas, large flightless birds that resemble emus.
We then learned about daily chores of gaucho life which included sheep sheering and milking.
Upon returning to the ranch house, staff members were walking around and handing out bowls of sweet strawberries grown in the gardens and topped with fresh cream...scrumptious! We sat under the huge canopy of various trees, ate and enjoyed the shade and a gentle breeze.
Then a family member took me for a ride behind their horse on a large piece of stiff, dried cowhide and I went "skin surfing" around an open pasture. That was fun! The hospitality of the owners and staff members could not have been more generous and warm.
Our long day at La Rabida came to an end, unfortunately. As we exited the long dirt road and pulled back onto the paved highway towards Montevideo, the family was there to wave us goodbye. We returned to the ship with smiles and fond memories of a day well spent.
Next, Day 2 in magnificent Uruguay: South American Cruise 2014
No comments:
Post a Comment