Laem Chabang, Thailand

From Koh Samui, the ship sailed north/northwest past the coast of mainland Thailand. In the early morning hours on Friday, October 31st, we boarded a local pilot who guided us safely into our berth in the port of Laem Chabang which was located in the Gulf of Thailand. After a custom's inspection the ship was released by authorities and passengers were allowed to go ashore around 7:15 a.m. The day that greeted us was partly cloudy with temperatures hovering in the mid 80F (29C).

  

We had a ten hour tour booked, which began around 7:30 a.m., planned for the day  Our tour bus was ready and waiting for us at the port. Bangkok was our destination and it was a full day of exploration that would not get us back to the ship until after 6:00 p.m. that evening.

To begin with, LOVED the neon, day glow colors inside our bus. It was like a rolling disco on four wheels. Great way to wake up and start our day.

The drive from the port at Laem Chabang to Bangkok took approximately 2.5 hours each way, subject to very heavy traffic conditions that we experienced later that day. There were strict dress codes on this excursion stating shorts were not permitted, women must cover their shoulders and knees and shoes should be easy to take on and off. These conditions were a show of respect when visiting the palace and temples.

Since 1932, the Head of  Government in Thailand has been the Prime Minister. On May 7, 2014, Thailand's first female Prime Minister was ousted from office on charges of abuse of power. There is also a royal family in Thailand (formerly known as Siam) that has dated back to 1238. This exotic and enchanting monarchy has generated a novel (Anna and the King of Siam) and a movie (The King and I) which showcased riches and splendor in a world untouched by modern society. Until five months before our visit, Thailand had the world's longest reigning current monarch (Bhumibol Adulyadej) dating back to June,1946. On May 22, 2014, a military coup, led by Army General Prayuth Chan-ocha, took place and they seized power. At the time of our visit, Thailand was in a political mess. Curfews were in force from 10:00 p.m. - 5:00 a.m. local time, broadcast media was suspended and gatherings of more than five people were banned. Our tour guide informed us that just speaking against the current militia was cause for arrest. Note to self: our problems are small compared to so many others. This is what travel teaches - perspective.

Don't let the problems in their government steer you away from Thailand. There is so much to see and do and it can't be described in one visit. Thailand is an angel and the devil sitting on any visitor's shoulders simultaneously. On one side, it is magnificent golden temples and palaces, spirit houses, saffron-robed monks, smiling people, colorful tuk tuks, exotic vendors, glamorous resorts, gems and silks, world renowned cuisine and a culture that is real and not synthetic. The other shoulder offers the world's most congested streets, naughty nightlife (so I'm told), intense heat and pollution from cars and industry (we witnessed the grey smog that hung over Bangkok - below).

Thailand started out looking like just another big city with highways except the street signs were in Thai, obviously. 

Like other large cities, its old met new and progress lived alongside poverty.

  

But, then it began to slowly morph. The skyline became dotted with color, landscaping went green and architecture became unique. In the distance was the Rama IX Bridge, its yellow spans stretching over the Chao Phraya River. 

On the top of the State Tower building, the second tallest building in Thailand, sat a gold dome. This was home to the world famous and award winning Sirocco Restaurant and Sky Bar, serving Mediterranean cuisine al fresco and offering a 270 degree panorama view of Bangkok and the Chao Phraya River.

The Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang), with its Western style colonial pillars and architecture, sat in the heart of Bangkok. Formerly the home of the Thai King since 1782, it was currently being used for ceremonial purposes only. Since 1946, the palace was no longer a royal residence due to the mysterious death of King Rama VIII (the older brother of the recently ousted King Bhumibol Adulyadej, or Rama IX). The reverence for the monarchy in Thailand is so great that, even today, this topic remains taboo and must not be discussed in public.

The palace complex is massive, covering an area of 2,351,000 square feet (218,400 square meters) and is surrounded by four white walls. It is made up of numerous structures, halls, pavilions with lawns, gardens and courtyards. 

The fabulous pink elephant round-a-bout outside the palace was created in 2011 to celebrate the 84th birthday of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Elephants are a sacred symbol of of royal power.

I was getting tuk tuk fever! In case you didn't know, tuk tuks (Sum Lahs) are three wheeled vehicles (also known as "auto rickshaws") used commonly in many countries around the world. I love them! Especially the ones decked out in personal style and lots of color.

This was the Giant Swing, a religious structure that sat in front of the Wat Suthat temple. Constructed in 1784 by King Rama I, it was used during the reign of King Rama II. A swing ceremony was held in each month of the Thai lunar calendar to reenact an ancient Hindu epic. It involved teams of young men testing their skill by swinging high enough to retrieve a sack of gold coins tied on top of one of the pillars approximately 75 feet (22.86 m) in the air. The ceremony was finally stopped in 1935 after several fatal accidents.

  

Propaganda was evident all around Bangkok in support of the beloved King Bhumibol Adulyadej and his wife Queen Sirikit, who were ousted by the coup months before our visit.

  

Our next stop was the Royal Pavilion Mahajetsadabadin, built in 1989 and used as a reception area for the King (or Rama) to greet Royal visitors. This area is pedestrian only traffic with perfectly manicured grounds and a nice walk. Very stunning and opulent.

On the corner of Ratchadamnoen Klang and Maha Chai Road sat Wat (meaning "temple") Ratchanatdaram, a Buddhist temple. It was built in 1846 by order of Rama III for the princess granddaughter, Somanass Waddhanawathy. The temple is best known for the Loha Prasat, a multiple tiered structure 118 feet (36 m) in height and the 37 metal spires, signifying 37 virtues toward enlightenment.  

  

  
Our first monk sighting, an integral part of Thailand. Every Thai Buddhist man must leave their family and go through the stage of being a monk for a few weeks, years and sometimes a lifetime. At ages 7-19, they are called "novice" and 20 years and older are called "monk".

  

On to Wat Pho, home to more than one thousand Buddha images, home of the Reclining Buddha, and known for being the country's earliest centre for public education. The Reclining Buddha, one of the largest single Buddha images, is huge...150 feet (46 m) long and covered in gold leaf. 

  

 

The bottom of Buddha's feet were inlaid with mother of pearl.

  

Believe it or not, this is the best place to get a traditional Thai massage. Wat Pho is considered the leading school of massage in Thailand. Unfortunately, we didn't have time. This complex, which is over 861 square feet (8 ha) in size, is huge and takes lots of time to wander through. It reminded me of a maze and often I felt as if I had walked in a circle. The details were stunning and so intricate.

  

  

  

  

  

  

The remains of Rama I are interred in the base of this Buddha image. Lotus blossoms are placed at the alter. From seed to blossom, the lotus symbolizes the path of life and strength. It is an aquatic plant that grows from a murky, muddy bottom and unfolds into a gorgeous flower.

  

Lots of gold leaf and Buddhas which led me to ask "what is a Buddha" and "why is it so important in the Buddhist religion"? The word Buddha means "awakened one" or "enlightened one". The Buddha began as an "ordinary man" like you and I before he became enlightened and is based on a prince who lived 2,500 years ago. Enlightenment means to experience a complete transformation of body and mind, taking on all positive qualities and eliminating all negative ones. Thus, Buddha represents the embodiment of the religion based on these qualities. 

    

Our tour took us onwards to Wat Suthat Thep Wararam, one of the oldest and largest temples in Thailand. It is famed for its beautiful roof line, magnificent frescoes and the Giant Swing out front (mentioned earlier).

  

  

  

A guard sat watch in front of the doors to the main chapel. The doors were fabulously gilded and depicted colorful scenes from the Ramakien (stories from the reigns of Ramas). We quietly took a peak inside the temple during meditation and saw the 25 foot (7.62 m) tall Buddha. 

  

Around the main temple are walls on four sides. Along those walls were more than 150 Buddha statues in various stages of repair. In 2007, a project began to re-gild each of the statues.
  
This was the view standing just outside the top of the steps of the main temple and looking towards the surrounding walls.

  

  

The humidity and heat combined forces and were delivering a real "punch" by this time. We were wilting from the intense sun and lots of walking and now it was time for some breeze and a cool break. As we exited Wat Suthrat, a row of tuk tuks were lined up and waiting for us. The next part of our tour was a ride around the inner part of Bangkok. Yippee!!

Can you tell I like lime green? Yup! I chose the most colorful tuk tuk I saw.

  

And away we went! 
  

  

  
Tributes to Queen Sirikit from her recent birthday on August 12th.
  

We "tuk-tukked" over to a charming boutique hotel called the Royal Princess Larn Luang Bangkok and had a scrumptious buffet lunch in their Princess Cafe. I tried rice dumplings in coconut cream (Pa Grimp Kai Tuew), Thai dessert candies (Luk Chup) and green beans ground in coconut milk and sugar and steamed in a tied banana leaf. For items I could not identify, I followed some waiters around and asked them questions while trying to take notes, but it was a hopeless cause. Not that they weren't helpful...they were. We just had a language barrier and experienced a "loss in translation". 

  

This was the end of our day and it had been a full one. Our tuk tuk driver drove us back to our waiting tour bus. From there, we headed back to the port. On the ride back, I learned some very interesting facts: Buddhists must be cremated when they die; Buddhists believe in Karma and that good begets good; monks are the "psychologists" of the Buddhists and help them solve problems according to their religion; Thai families have many children due to their history as farmers; main crops are rice, tapioca, fruits and veggies; Thailand means "Land of Freedom"; tap water needs to be boiled before drinking; Thailand has big problems with termites.

Thailand deserves another visit if I am ever in the area again. I felt safe when I explored on my own in Bangkok, despite its volatile politics. I can't say the same for other countries I have visited during such turmoil. It must be the people and the way they embrace respect, religion and tradition in such a harmonious way. 

Click here to see what happened next on our journey: Asia and Australia 2014