Rick and I are "Elite Members" with Princess Cruises which means we get special perks when sailing with Princess, one being priority tender service. This came in handy on that day. By getting ashore early we missed Captain Foster's decision to cease tender service later that day when the winds grew and safety became a serious issue. So those still on board the ship would not get ashore that day.
We chose the upper deck of the tender on our ride into port to soak up some sun. However, the cold and wind made it a bad decision as the wind and spray were getting us chilled and wet. Later, the upper deck would be closed to passengers on all tenders for the remainder of the day.
Before we go further, what kind of history formed this city of Punta Arenas, you ask? Well, I'll tell you (and...thanks for asking). The name Punta Arenas means "Sands Point" in English. Punta Arenas is located in one of the wildest, most remote regions on earth. This city enjoyed two heydays. The first lasted from about 1850 to 1914 when it was the principle coaling and supply station for ships rounding Cape Horn, as well as a major supplier of wool. It was also, by virtue of its strategic location, one of the busiest ports in the world. Its first golden age ended abruptly in 1914 when the Panama Canal opened and ships no longer needed to round Cape Horn. The situation grew worse as wool from New Zealand and Australia began to compete with its major product. Punta Arenas more or less languished until oil was discovered nearby in the 1940's. Improvements on the road system thereafter helped this city recover its status as an important commercial center. Tourism helps, of course, and adventure seekers make this a popular destination which is referred to as the "Uttermost Realm".
Okay, back to the tender we were riding on. The choppy waters made disembarking the tender a bit tedious. The dock and the tender weren't lining up as the water level rose and fell, rose and fell. Timing it right, you had to jump from the boat to the dock with the aid of multiple dock hands standing by who had outstretched hands waiting. Once onto the dock, our path led us up stairs then through a large plastic, clear tube (shelter from the winds). We continued through a large yellow and blue shed-like building which was the port terminal.
Once out of the terminal, we took advantage of a photo moment with the tail of the whale, a popular shot for tourists who were now at "The Antarctic Gate".
We wandered around Punta Arenas and went wherever our feet took us. It was early and the town seemed deserted and too quiet, not yet awake.
The trash receptacles in front of the houses were something different - wire baskets on a steel pole positioned along the sidewalks. I thought this was cool because it was not what I am used to seeing.
We explored around the Plaza Munoz Gamero, a focal point of the city, with its commemorative statues and thick, green, perfectly pruned pines.
The city is compact and walkable and makes it easy to navigate. We passed Ann and Paul, a couple we befriended on this long voyage, who are from Bright, Australia.
We walked by a very palatial building with an impressive ornate fence around the beautifully landscaped property. At first thought, it looked like a governor's home or private mansion. Turns out it is the residence of a Padre Obispo...hmm, that reminded me...isn't the Catholic Church looking into extravagance such as this?
Next, we wondered upon a small, three story indoor mall with a gorgeous view of the port on the third floor. But shops were not open yet. I caught a vendor preparing his fresh catch of the day, which looked like a barracuda. A small shrine to San Pedro (Saint Peter), the patron saint of fisherman, graced the lower level of this mall. Whenever I see Saint Peter in my travels, it makes me feel my brother Brad's presence and reminds me of his love of fishing.
After hours of exploring, we found a place that served local lager and free WIFI, so we partook. I wasn't feeling well that day - rather exhausted and battling some viral issues. So we relaxed and caught up on emails and I worked on my blog for about two hours.
Once we got back outdoors, there was a noticeable difference in the weather. Skies were getting grey, temps had dropped and wind picked up. We headed towards Bories Street, the main hub district with shops and supermarkets. It was rather quiet and quaint with black lamp posts along its tiled sidewalks framed by brick pavers. The wind was coming straight up the street like a tunnel. I later learned this interesting tidbit that applied to this very moment. The Magellan Straits are notorious for their fierce winds that sweep through it, occasionally reaching 110mph. During the windiest part of the year (September and October), ropes are actually tied between these street lamps for people to hold onto as they walk.
We could see the water from where we were and it was alarmingly sloshing. So we thought we should head back to the port area and get back to the ship. Little did we know it would get worse before the day ended.
When we got to the terminal, there was a long line of passengers who had the same idea we did. The wait was long but it was indoors and warm. We later learned that the winds turned into a Force 8 (39-46 mph based on the Beaufort Scale for maritime) creating considerable airborne spray and 18-25 foot waves. Tendering back to the ship was now dangerous. Only one tender would leave the ship at a time waiting for the other to return before another was sent out. We were being taken in small groups at a time. By then the sun was once again shining and the skies looked deceivingly benign.
Once we got inside our tender, people were already getting sick and white bags were being passed around. As we headed slowly back to the ship, waves were going up and over the front of the tender. Water was coming in through the closed hatches and passengers near the "soak zones" were being forced to stand instead of sit to get away from the water. It was the worst experience with weather we have ever encountered on a ship's tender. It was a short distance between the ship and the pier (you can see this in the above photo). But, it took at least 35-40 minutes. Once we got to the ship, the pilot had to avoid smashing into the ship's pontoons. We never got sick but it was touch and go for me as it pushed my "sea legs" to their limits. Getting back on ship was a good feeling.
Later that evening, the weather calmed considerably. I went up on deck and took a photo of the beautiful cloud formations and the sun which was setting later the further south we went.
At around 9:30 p.m. the Crown Princess secured for the sea. We left our anchorage position at Punta Arenas, Chile and began our passage south then northwesterly between the fjords towards the end of the Magellan Strait and into the Pacific Ocean.
The following day would be a scenic cruise to the Amalie Glacier via the Sarmiento Channel: South American Cruise 2014
No comments:
Post a Comment