It was May 28th and 82F (27.7C) with blue skies and sunshine. Our next stop on the map was Coalinga, California where we had reservations to stay at the Sommerville Almond Tree RV Park. So we packed up our campsites at the Sequoia RV Resort at 10:00 a.m. and started a two hour drive on easy, level roadways towards our next destination. What a gorgeous view as we passed Lake Kaweah with dry, yellow grassy hillsides in the distance.
There were also groves of small olive trees in a distance as far as my eye could focus. This landscape continued for miles and miles as we headed west on CA-198. We also passed grape vineyards, fields of alfalfa, more olive trees then almond trees.
It made sense to us to make use of so much sunshine when we came upon miles of solar panels arranged in row upon row that stretched on and on deep towards the horizon.
The Sommerville Almond Tree RV Park sat in the southern portion of the San Joaquime Valley (circled in red). This valley, which relied heavily on crops, was drying up. We learned about a tangle of politics which was diverting precious water to big cities who paid big money. With no water being given to the local farmers in the valley, the farmers had to survive by digging deep wells looking for underground water aquifers on their own. In August, 2015 the California Department of Water Resources stated that because of the deep wells, groundwater levels had reached record lows - up to 100 feet lower than in previous years. Even NASA showed parts of the San Joaquime Valley sinking as much as 8 inches in just four months! This was causing a domino effect by damaging roads, bridges and flood control structures. It was a passionate topic for this area.
The campground office had a shady porch, which provided an escape from the heat while we checked in. The office manager planted a colorful array of plants and flowers, including a patch of fake grass, that offered a remarkable comparison to the dustbowl surrounding it.
I had never seen a almond tree up close before. We were told by the campground manager that when the almonds were in season, campers were encouraged to pick as many as they wanted. Too bad we were a little too early to experience this.
Lovely flowers lined the grove as we drove to our assigned campsite. There was a very inviting pool for campers as well. Good way to beat the heat.
Once we set up camp, we decided to drive around and see the sights. We went into downtown Coalinga and saw advertisements about an 80th Annual Horned Toad Derby that was happening that very weekend. We got lucky. Apparently it was a big deal in Coalinga...but then, there wasn't much going on in the area anyhow. The biggest employer in Coalinga was the Pleasant Valley State Prison where Sirhan Sirhan (assassin of Senator Robert F. Kennedy) used to be housed. Coalinga wasn't exactly a real beehive of activity and commercialism. So the derby sounded like a pleasant distraction we put on our agenda for the following day.
In the meantime, we toured the town and saw just how much the Horned Toad played into the local existence...high school mascot and inspiration for artsy pump jacks scattered around the town.
We saw this amazing restored 1934 Richfield gas station that was returned to its depression era, art deco glory located downtown.
Cool drinks sounded mighty nice so we paid a visit to the Mountain Oyster Steak House and Saloon in downtown Coalinga. I tried to play electronic darts on the machine in the saloon but lost 50 cents due to a malfunction (the machine, not me). In trying to get my 50 cents back...
...I walked over to the bar and met Kern. He jiggled and shook the machine but unfortunately it didn't work. But, Kern and I got along marvelously and he felt bad about me losing my change. So, he dug into his pocket and brought out his cherished bottle opener ring and wanted me to have it. He told me the history behind it which made it so dear to him...something about a Mr. Baker from Coalinga. I was touched and tried to refuse but he insisted. That led to a fun and lively conversation with his pals Edward and Fred Stevens who were also at the bar. I made friends that day - what great guys! I told them I would give them honorable mention in my blog for being so kind and I kept my promise. I still have the ring and keep it amongst my treasures at home.
We enjoyed another gorgeous sunset at our campsite while keeping an eye out for coyotes, which roamed about at night. One unfortunate thing in the evening was the flies...flies, flies, flies...they were a nuisance when sitting outside. The hard, barren dirt in between each campsite and all around the area was full of holes dug by ground squirrels so turning an ankle was a concern. We had to be extra careful.
The next morning Rick and Ralph prepared breakfast al fresco. Delicious way to start a day. It was already warm outside at 94F (34.4C), humidity at 25% and the UV Index at 10, the highest on the scale.
Then we headed over to the Horned Toad Derby at Olden Park which took place from May 27-May 30th. Since parking was a challenge, we had to walk a few blocks to get to the festivities. Along the way, I met some strangers who were cooking a giant feast in a huge pot and invited us to join them. Nice people.
The admission was free and there was a crowning of the Horned Toad Derby Queen and Princess, horned toad races, carnival rides and games (extra fee), parade, BBQ/food and music.
But, the biggest draw of all were the horned toad races. The toads were placed in a round, steel drum in the red center circle of the ring. The race started when the gentleman raised the drum and let the toads "race". Each toad had a color marking placed on it's back (kinda like a spot of dye). The first one to reach the outer portion of the ring (blue stars) won. Winners bet on the color (dye spot) of the toad that won. This was my first experience seeing a horned toad and holding one. Awesome!
After the derby, we went grocery shopping downtown. Now part of the joy of travel is seeing and experiencing different foods and cultures. This was no exception. Coalinga's population was 51.8% Hispanic and the selections of food in this store displayed that. First was the baked goods...rows and rows of delectable pastries and goodies.
Then, seemingly every imaginable type of chili and hot pepper and tortillas one could imagine.
Great big buckets of lard used for frying...my arteries were screaming at that point. Then an array of flavored fruit sodas in glorious colors.
Next, doritos (uncooked wheat flavored with chili and lime) in squares or wheels and piloncillo (hard, brown cane sugar) to make desserts, alongside cinnamon sticks.
Beverage choices were also unique...and spicy.
Candies and snacks included fruits covered in chili pepper and salted lemon.
Salad dressing was made with tamarind and chamoy sauce, a condiment made from pickled fruit and typically salty, sweet, sour and spiced with chilies. What a concoction!
Lastly, we found a jar of Nance fruit and decided to buy one and try it. So when we got back to the campground, we put a few of the pieces in a bowl and had a taste. They looked like cherries, had pits but were rather tasteless except for the sweet syrup they are packed in. They weren't my "cup of tea" but I'm glad I tried them.
The next day would take us to new sights in Paso Robles and some spectacular scenery: California - (Part 4) Paso Robles
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